May 7 2003, 4:51PM Museums looted in Bagdad "Go in Ali Baba! It's all yours." According to eye witnesses, U.S. soldiers literally opened the floodgates to the looters of iraqi museums. The goods were often traded on nearby streets on the very same day. By Walter Sommerfeld* (SZ v. 08.05.2003) - Anarchy rules in fallen Baghdad. People are armed to their teeth, and gunfights can be heard all day and night - shots of warning, fear, or joy at a temporarily recovered electricity supply. The greatest worry therefore is security. Out of the hundreds of thousands of former officials - teachers, doctors, professors or civil servants - not one has received their salary for the last two months. Thievery, robbery and holdup murder appear on the agenda. In broad daylight, armed bandits force car owners to stop and hand over their posessions. On the other hand, militia have been formed, and ordinary citizens observe and regulate traffic using self-made signs. Iraqis indeed are masters of improvisation. The fury with which infrastructure and cultural assets have been destroyed is particularly shocking. Eye witnesses' accounts are identical in detail. Obviously, facilities have been plundered systematically from district to district. Unprofitable assets were simply destroyed; in museums, libraries, interpretive centres, the country's fifteen universities, all ministries except the oil ministry, hospitals, state-run warehouses, hotels, banks, palaces, even the German embassy, the French cultural institute and UN buildings. Until the beginning of May, plunderings took place all day long. These raids were either instigated or tolerated. Many Iraqi people unavailingly attempted to convince U.S. soldiers to intervene. Even objections at the commandants' headquarters at the Palestine-Hotel were in vein. Among the plunderers were poor slum inhabitants as well as middle class residents. Their motives were poverty, anger, revenge or greed and the loot was often traded on nearby streets on the very same day. The most stunning detail common to all depictions was the assertion that in many cases U.S. American soldiers helped the plunderers by breaking firmly locked gates and then inviting everybody around:'Go in, Ali Baba, it's yours!'. Among U.S. soldiers, 'Ali Baba' is the collective term used for Iraqi plunderers. One UN employee observed Americans entering the engineering university, opening computers and removing their hard drives before the plunderers set their work on. Many Iraqis openly talk about these occurences but prefer to remain anonymous because of the compulsory cooperation with the Americans and the fear of repression. The same applies to the employees of the Museum of Iraq and its residents all the more since their observations are highly explosive. On Tuesday, April 8 intense combats surrounded the museum because of its central location and strategic importance. The armed militia that were supposed to protect the building from raids left the scene in agony, and the building fell into the hands of the Americans. The very next day, according to a high-ranking employee of the museum two American tanks and several soldiers advanced, broke the main entrance open and remained unwatched in the showrooms for about two hours. Then they took away several objects and pulled out. The observers were not able to identify the objects taken along but most of the very big and eye-caching exhibits were left in place. Only the smaller objects were taken out. One resident reports that Iraqis who were coincidentally standing nearby were then invited by the U.S. soldiers to help themselves: 'This is your treasure, get in!'. For three days the plunderers were allowed to do their work in front of the rolling camera. The few remaining employees vainly asked American troops for help:'This is not our order.', they replied. The employees were worried that after the plunderers had taken all valuable objects incendiaries might destroy the remaining documentation, notes on archaeological excavations and the library, as seen elsewhere. Therefore, on Sunday two directors asked for an audition at the commandants' headquarters. After a four-hour waiting period they were allowed to bring forward their concerns. The commander promised to send tanks and soldiers for the museum's protection immediately. But two days later still nothing had happened. Then one director managed to phone his colleague at the British Museum in London over satellite who then mobilised several British and American contacts. Since then, the Museum of Iraq is one of the best protected museums in the world. Its employees and even the directors - who are still cleaning up and registering the damages - are allowed into the building only after intense scrutiny. 'We decide who gets in and when', the guard commander told me. The employees are disgusted with this amount of paternalism. In one tract inside the museum the regained objects are stored. About a dozen of soldiers watches over the merely one hundred finds laid out on the tables. Some of the best-known exhibits have definitely disappeared (see list). The plunderers unhamperedly broke open the repositories where 170 000 items were stored. A current generator has been installed a few days ago and the employees are now recording the damages. The library remained intact as well as many notes on archeological excavations and most of the inventary books. A total loss was prevented but most of the collections are missing. Obviously, the robbed antiques are especially sought-after by journalists. On the 500km highway between Baghdad and the Jordan border armed gangs are increasingly targeting press vehicles. One victim reported that after bandits had taken over his car they immediately wanted to know: 'Where are the antiques?' In a Journalist's car twelve boxes filled with antiques were found. The most precious, uninsurable objects - among which a famous Assyrian gold treasure - were stored in the central bank's vault. But even there, the plunderers were given plenty of rope for a long time before it was shielded by soldiers. The Antiques Office has no information about which treasures remained preserved and where they are. But even after an international outrage the destruction of Iraq's cultural assets is still being tolerated. A European colleague and an Iraqi archeologist report that in Babylon - perhaps the most famous city of the Old World - plunderings and incendiaries were observable until a few days ago. Among other things, documentation about Iraqi archaeological excavations was destroyed. As in Baghdad, the Antiques Office's representatives called on the U.S. troops who were accomodated in one of Saddam's former palaces. All in vein. 'This is not our order'. Iraq's fifteen universities have been completely plundered and set on fire, except for the Baghdad University in Dschadirija, where the Americans had their cantonment. Mustansarija University - the second oldest university in the world after Bologna - was completely destroyed. Even permanently installed equipment and power outlets were dismantled, and the campus was burnt down. The faculty of humanities of Baghdad University in Wazirija is badly destroyed, as well as the faculty of archaeology. Some of the buildings have collapsed due to the fires. From the German language and literature studies library which held more than 15 000 volumes, nothing is left but a few lumps of ash. In the meantime, professors and students have started their cleanup efforts. But it is not easy: Gasoline supply is running out - one gas station after the other is closing down and in addition to paying the ten-fold price, customers have to wait in line for four to five hours for a tankful of petrol. Driving to the university is now very expensive. Some rooms have provisorily been remade and secured with self-bought padlocks. On May 17 the universities are supposed to reopen - without furniture, libraries, paper, administration documents. Brooms and shovels - not computers and lecture notebooks - are the most important tools now. Science has to be taught from memory. Many teachers will do it for the students' sake, so they don't lose a whole year. 'Under Saddam it was bad but now it is even worse. Why are they doing this to us?', the archaeological faculty's dean said. 'Our future is dark. There is no confidence, in anything. We only want to survive.' *The author is a professor for old orientalism in Marburg and a regular visitor to Iraq for 20 years. He was one of the first German scientists to visit Iraq after the war.